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Back in the USA

Today I spent the afternoon at the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art.  It was my third visit to this great museum and my first to the second floor.  I admired Chinese, Japanese, and Indian art and statuary while listening to George Gao play the erhu in my ears.  It was a rich cultural experience and the music gave the ancient forms an ethereal quality.

On the way home I stopped at the Sun Fresh Market to pick up some groceries.  I am being very judicious about my purchases, avoiding over processed foods and anything that I can’t use in the next week and a half since I am moving from here.  There was a man in the checkout lane next to me who looked about 100 years old.  He couldn’t have weighed more than 100 pounds, including his powder blue jump suit.  He stood there waiting patiently as the people ahead of him had run off to find cash since their card was declined.  The checker was encouraging him to go pay at customer service since she didn’t know how much longer the vanished customer would be.  He just stood there calmly.  I thought about how people like him should probably have others bring in their groceries – then I thought about how it’s a great thing, a minor triumph, for him to be able to get out and buy his own.  It’s got to be that attitude that has kept him spry.  I looked to see what he was buying – two packages of ice cream.  Perfect.

As you may have guessed, I am no longer in Kisangani, DRC.  I have been back in the states for about three months and I have been too silent here.  I will write about my departure from Congo soon – that was a crazy night.  I may write about my close call with an airplane that crashed just a few weeks after I flew on it.
I came back after about 25 months in Congo.  After about a year in, Kinshasa and Kisangani became very normal to me – home.  Flying over that jungle felt more normal to me than flying over the Rockies.  It was at times a hard place to be but I am thankful for every day I was able to live there.

People have asked me what I missed from my plate while I was in Congo.  I always told them the truth: broccoli and Mexican food.  The friends and family back here were on my heart much more often than the foods I missed, however.  Now when I think of Congo the same is true and it gives me the encouraging thought that true friendship is universal and with work and time can transcend cultural differences.

While I lived in Africa I got to travel around a fair bit in that enormous place.  I’ve also been on the road quite a bit since returning to the USA: to California twice, Pennsylvania, Oregon, Minnesota, and Arizona.  I have been calling Kansas City my home during this time.  I live a few blocks into Kansas and make frequent trips to Missouri.  I have been a fledgling gospel pianist in an African-American church in this historic music town.  I have come back from some personal frontiers in Congo to land near Westport, the place where wagon trains set out for the American West that I love so much.    I learned to make some killer fajitas and tasted some luscious barbecue.  I’ve met some great people here in Kansas City, some of the coolest kids in town.  Best of all, I have been able to have some great face time with the one who drew me to this place.

I think I am going to keep the website going through this time of transition.  I may change the look of things a bit in awhile.  It feels strange to take the picture of Congo off of the banner – since Congo is marked on me now more than ever.  Lots of people asked me if I am “done with Africa, like for good?”  I am done with my employment with HOPE International and we’re all looking forward to the day when time and circumstances allow me to work for HOPE again, either in the USA or abroad.  I can’t make any guarantees that I won’t go live in Africa on short notice again.

HOPE Bakery

Here are some recent photos.  The first is a micro-business on the other side of the Congo River.  The owner/operator of this bakery changed the business name to HOPE and a staff member shared this photo with me.  The second picture is at the river crossing.  They really pack people into the dugout canoes - our loan officers rent the entire boat.

HOPE BakeryKisangani River Crossing

Every rose has its thorns.

This morning I arrived at the office and soon realized the cat was nowhere to be seen.  The guards had previously informed me that she’d been receiving regular nighttime visits from a burly tomcat and it usually didn’t go well.  They always seemed to get into a brouhaha.  Well lately, the visits have been more cordial and apparently he convinced her to leave the office with him (something she’s practically never done before) on a flight of fancy.  I knew she’d venture out of the nest someday, but it was still a shocker.  She came ambling back around 1PM looking much worse for the wear.  She was quite shell-shocked and frazzled from head to tail.  She kept shaking her paws and seemed to move with difficulty, but there was no bleeding.  She seemed to drool some.  I made a little bed for her behind the open office door and she rested there all afternoon.  Poor thing.  Love hurts.

Small blessings

This website really isn’t about gifts that I recieve. And just because the last two posts are about such things, don’t think that I’m spending a lot of time receiving gifts and writing about just a few of them. At least not in the material sense. I was given a gift Friday when a staff member came to me at the end of the day a bit nervously wanting to talk through something that upset her in our staff meeting. Her desire to discuss it and find reconciliation was a real gift. The two little tiny dudes that ran alongside the jeep on the way home from work Friday grinning and waving at me while one of them was having a hard time keeping his pants up… the view across the river right this moment in warm morning light, colors muted by a hint of unpolluted haze… finding out that I have colleagues coming for a brief visit this week… all great gifts. In some ways it wasn’t an easy week for me and yet from about 3:00 PM Friday to this moment, things have gotten better. There have been many small blessings, and one clucking gift.
Yesterday was without a doubt a small milestone in my life. Pastor Andre sent the gift of a live rooster for me. Now I’ve heard of the anxiety some feel when presented a gift in front of others, they are worried about the all-important reaction and whether it will betray their true feelings. I’d love to have seen my expression when I looked in that plastic sack and saw the rooster looking right back up at me. Before knowing the gift was poultry, I made some joke about it being a guinea pig since the pastor’s boy raises them for meat. Little did I know that it was in fact a live animal! I’m sure that my reaction expressed both surprise and gratitude. I am very thankful for the gift and I am sad that I didn’t have my camera. The rooster is now in the fridge (much less photogenic at this stage) and I’ll cook it when my guests arrive later this week. Chicken recipes anyone?

Petrus & his guinea pigs Pastor Andre

A Grand Circle Tour

Congo Map

I am sitting on the floor of the transit lounge in the makeshift UN terminal at Bukavu.  I had no idea that I’d be sitting here today.  I’m flying from Kinshasa in the west to Kisangani in the center of the country but today’s flight plan has me on a grand circle tour of the Congo.  (Kinshasa – Kananga – Bukavu – Kisangani)  The good news is that in a few hours I should be back in Kisangani settling back into my routine there.

I just spent the weekend in Kinshasa where I was able to have some helpful work conversations with my coworkers and get a haircut.  A friend who works for the Red Cross did a great job cutting my hair nice and short.  I feel like a new man.  As of now the temperatures in Kisangani have eased a bit but the heat and humidity should be extra oppressive again very soon, so the haircut was important.

These days the weather in Kinshasa is calm and it’s a good thing since the election results are expected any day now.  Hopefully the cool-ish weather will help to cool emotions.  The main concern is in Kinshasa where Kabila is not favored.  If he wins a national majority or plurality, the citizens of Kinshasa may protest violently.  The opposition candidate that is favored has a colorful history and still has his own militia.  He’s at once assuring everyone that the political process should be protected and he’s claiming victory before the results have been announced, trying to build a coalition of all of his major opponents, save Kabila and his close allies.  It’s interesting to watch the engineering of political power and the sways of public opinion in a country where it’s less than subtle.

Up to now, I have been somewhat discouraged that the church has not been proclaiming peace and calling the faithful to keep any protests from turning violent and descending into burning and pillaging.  The association of major Protestant churches in Kinshasa has recently issued a statement on television urging peaceful reactions to the election results and I am thankful for that.  If there will be troubles, it’s more likely to be in Kinshasa than in Kisangani because of the political climate and strongly contested elections.

I have experienced multi cultural situations, but traveling with the UN is a unique situation.  So far today I have seen personnel from India, Pakistan, Egypt, Malawi, Senegal, Kenya, Belgium, Zambia, South Africa, France, Bangladesh, Canada, Uruguay, Romania, Paraguay, Benin, China, and Congo.  And those are just the ones that I could pick out by the flag on their shoulder.

There’s a little food service counter in the corner of this lounge but it’s mobbed with people, the prices are usually expensive and the service is quite slow.  I paid $3 just now for a sandwich and it came very quickly.  There were no beverages available at all, they’re sold out.  The two men staffing the cafeteria are serving a crowd of people with about four coffee cups and three plates.  I’m glad for them that the water in their sink is running in the middle of the dry season.

In the past four days I have received two joyful announcements of staff weddings that will be happening soon.  I am excited to attend my first Congolese wedding in a few weeks.  I have also heard about two untimely deaths.  One death was the sister of a staff member in Kinshasa who required an emergency caesarean section and it went wrong.  The other one is the year old daughter of a Nazarene pastor here.  I don’t know yet know the nature of the illness that struck the small child in Kisangani.  I got a call saying that she was sick just as I was heading to the plane to fly out for the weekend and then I got a call from her father on Monday saying that she’d died at 9AM on Sunday.  I’m again reminded by this news that God is present in both the joys and sorrows of life.

Historic Elections in Five Days

With Congo’s elections just five days from now, the political climate is starting to heat up. I’m keenly aware that I am witnessing something quite historic. News stories on the subject almost always call these elections “the first free elections in 45 years”. There are others who will tell you that in reality they are the first “free elections” ever for Congo. There are still more who are criticizing these elections claiming that they are far from free.

Campaign Banners

I’ve intentionally avoided addressing politics very directly in my stories here. That’s not to say that the last five months haven’t been a lengthy lesson in Congo’s sordid political drama, past and present. There is no way that I could tell you the entire story here. It would take too long. It took months and many, many conversations before I finally could say that I understood the major movements of the most recent war, officially ended in 2003. (It’s still hanging on in some corners of the country, but not where I live.)

The jungle landscape and its lack of infrastructure (roads, principally), perceived insignificance to Westerners, and the sheer complexity of the crisis have kept much of the story out of the world media. All major roads were allowed to deteriorate by the dictator Mobutu in order to slow any opposition from sending a militia to the capital Kinshasa to stage a coup. He had plenty of money to maintain the roads constructed in the Belgian colonial era as his government was heavily funded by the west in the Cold War. He was the darling of Washington DC when he showed up in his trademark leopard skin hat at the White House during numerous visits. He was portrayed as a benevolent dictator even as he was eating his country’s future and building villas on the Italian Riviera, (probably the French one too and any other Riviera that struck his fancy…). Mobutu, like many African leaders, was left unfunded -down and out- after the end of the Cold War when the wealthy nations stopped paying many of the bills in Africa. They no longer cared about Mobutu’s allegiance. While writing his checks, they never seemed to care about his style of governance or the treatment of his people, either.

The Congo seems insignificant to the West because it’s largely landlocked in the dead center of the poorest continent. It is one of the poorest nations on earth. The Congolese chased out the Belgian colonizers in quick order after independence. (Read up on the colonial history and you may agree you’d have done it the same way.) The Belgians were here for the rich natural resources, many of which are still not fully explored or exploited. Their nice little country is bankrupt without external resources. Since they left, people from all over have been here to find diamonds, gold, cobalt, coltan, (something they need to make your cell phone and is almost exclusively found here,) and a laundry list of other natural riches. One great irony of the DR Congo is that it’s the richest poor country. The Congolese have been on the losing end of business deals for a long time. If you still think that your life has absolutely nothing to do with the Congo, just look at your diamond jewelry or wait for your cell phone to ring. Congo is quite significant to the rest of the world.

As Mobutu’s regime faded after the Cold War it left the door open for chaos to explode in a mad grab for Congo’s riches. Every neighboring country wanted a slice to sell in the world’s black markets. Without going into detail here, the world paid little attention while around 10 countries allied themselves with ambitious Congolese leaders and warlords and they waged a brutal war for the control of those resources. In an already poor nation, the feeble health system disintegrated. Every system failed under the weight of chaotic war. Millions of people have died from the failure to provide for basic needs. Meanwhile a prolonged war meant more wealth for those waging it and the illicit export of minerals funded the war nicely.

So Sunday will be a historic day with its election. These are some of the most tricky elections, with results being transported from local polling centers to about 65 regional centers (we’re talking about tens of millions of voters in a country the size of the USA east of the Mississippi) by motorcycle and from there to main cities by helicopter. I don’t believe that anyone really knows the true cost of the elections, or of the war for that matter, but considering the cost of the UN contingent here it’s well into the multiple billions. It’s probably the most expensive election the world has ever known.

I’ve been watching the campaigns, especially when they are hard to miss. There were two major rallies in front of my apartment on Saturday. (One was for the man who was allied with the Rwandese and the other for the man who was allied with the Ugandans.) Yesterday I saw people clamoring, even fighting, over yellow hats being handed out in support of Joseph Kabila, the current president.

Yellow Caps

All things considered, the elections are going very well here in Kisangani. I am keeping aware of the security situation. Please pray for peace as we know that true peace comes from God alone. As always, I ask for your prayers. I especially ask for your prayers for the people of Congo. I am not in any grave danger and if news comes out of trouble surrounding the elections in the coming weeks, remember that it is a very big country. I will be posting some of my observations here.

I encourage anyone who is interested to read up on the current coverage of the DR Congo. I’m sure it is being obscured somewhat by the most recent conflict in the Middle East. But nonetheless I have been following some very good coverage on the BBC, The New York Times, and NPR.

The Breakfast Club

Friendships are very important to me and I am thankful that some friendships are developing here.  John and Clarice came over again Saturday and brought John’s younger brother Alain, who I like to call “Papa Cool”.  Another friend Morro also came over.  We made pancakes and had a late breakfast together (using the two eggs from Clarice’s father).  We watched some Wallace & Gromit in French and in the afternoon we made some chocolate ice cream.

First time trying pancakes Papa Cool

13 March - First Day at Kinshasa HOPE office

I have to say that the heat and humidity causes some additional fatigue, but it is not horrible. In fact it is quite supportable with a good attitude. It may take some time before I can get any photos posted as we are quite busy. It’s also a little hard to take photos here without offending people according to the culture and the laws. Photos will come at some point, however.

Much love to everyone.

Blog post 11 March 2006 – upon arrival in Kinshasa

I feel like I have just flown halfway around the world and I haven’t even gone quite that far. The trip was rather uneventful. The longest line was the one to get out of Philadelphia. It has been a royal pain carrying all of the baggage that I have got, but I know that the things I’ve brought will make a big difference during my stay here. I look forward to getting to Kisangani where I can truly unpack it all and settle in. It was nice having a travel companion in Lee Zimmerman who has come from Lancaster, PA to help with some IT work for two weeks. Let it suffice to say that the arrival tonight at Kinshasa was a unique experience. Traffic was quite bad for the night time coming from the airport to my new boss Nate’s house, but at last we are here and cooking something to eat. I know that a night’s sleep will do some good, but it’s hard to sleep on a new bed in a new climate under a new mosquito net and all of that in a new time zone. Hold on, I need to change the time on my computer’s clock… That’s better. Now at least one clock is right, even if the one in my head is swimming.

So it is quite humid here, and it did just rain recently, so this might be a little thick tonight. But it’s true what I have been told, that it is not bad at all when you have a fan blowing in your direction stirring the air. Of course, I haven’t felt it in the daytime. That’ll come tomorrow.

I know the now familiar feeling of arriving in Africa for a two week PLNU LoveWorks trip. I realize now that the end date is always in your mind. Now I am here and I am here for awhile. It’s a good feeling, and an apprehensive one. God is good.

Step 2: Lancaster, PA

I’ve spent the last few days here in Lancaster, PA at the HOPE International HQ. They call it the CSU, which means the Central Service Unit. The people here are very dynamic and very nice. This is a small but growing organization and it is very exciting to be part of it. Coming from a large organization like PLNU it is definitely a change of environment, but that is not a bad thing in life. There are many exciting things developing with HOPE Congo and I am very eager to get involved and looking forward to being able to write about some of it when it is appropriate.

The countryside here is quite beautiful. I never took my camera out to snap photos and there wasn’t much time for that, but I wish that I could have shown you something. Maybe I will find some photos on the net to post later. I sent a puzzle to my grandpa recently with a Pennsylvania Dutch farm scene painting on it and I feel like I am in that painting here. There are cool looking houses and barns and rolling hills. I haven’t seen any Amish horse drawn buggies yet, but there is still a little time. It’s very classic American-feeling here with all of the old architecture and the quaint streets of downtown Lancaster. I am glad that HOPE is based here because I think I could live here someday if need be and I will enjoy the visits.

The weather has been great here. It’s in the 70’s today, almost a little balmy. It’s nice to have a little San Diego weather before I leave for Congo.

I’ll be on a flight this evening to Paris.

Love,

Brian