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2006 May Archive at BrianJBecker.com

Monthly Archive for May, 2006

The Central Market

Yesterday I took my first trip to the central market.  There are grocery stores that sell canned goods and other non-perishables.  But those stores rarely sell many fresh fruits and vegetables.  There really aren’t many vegetables available in the market beyond onions, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, manioc (the tuber that we make tapioca from in the west), manioc greens, and something they call spinach (I am not sure that’s what it is).  Usually white potatoes and carrots are also available for a price as well as some very tiny celery that can be used for flavoring dishes.  It is much too puny and limp to dip into a jar of Skippy but it gives the flavor of celery and that’s enough for me.  The central market has been displaced for over a year now as the government is reconstructing it.  It’s as if they have transplanted the heart out of the center of the town.  Where the market should be there’s only a tall fence and the promise that something nice is being built inside.  Nobody seems to know when it will reopen but everyone is sure that there will be some serious dickering and dealing over the available stalls.  Many merchants are fine with their displacement.  The market is quite spread out and I doubt many are paying rent on their selling location.  People there were very friendly and welcoming.  As usual I was a true oddity there.  White?! Male?! Large?!  I wouldn’t be surprised if a few are still talking to one another saying, “Hey, do you remember when that big white guy came through here and did some shopping?  What was that all about?”  I hope that I can get back often enough so that I become less of an odd occurrence.

Hope Client Kisangani

Just about everything at the market appears to be held together with bailing wire or twine.  There are low hanging tarps over the aisles in many spots so I had to stoop as I walked through.  The flies are definitely there.  Sugar is the only necessity that I don’t expect I’ll ever buy at the market because the flies are just in sweet heaven on those heaping mounds of unprocessed sugar.  So far I haven’t seen any processed white sugar.  We have the stuff that’s halfway between white and brown.  Even though the flies are on just about everything else, we wash, peel, and cook most everything and that helps reduce the risk of food borne illness.

There were only a couple of dodgy moments at the market.  I heard someone behind me trying to get my attention and I turned around almost right into a live chicken that was being dangled for me to examine.  I politely declined since I wasn’t in the market for any animals, live or dead.  I also saw some interesting meat on a table and asked what it was.  It was some kind of antelope.  Bush meat is a major delicacy here and a serious environmental concern.  Believe it or not the US Customs frequently confiscates crates of jungle animals for human consumption being smuggled into the USA and headed to the dinner tables of African immigrants.

Staples like sugar, beans, rice, flour and peanuts are sold by the scoop and I buy them in good conscience.  Tonight I made some coconut curry with the potatoes, onions and carrots that I bought at the market yesterday.  I thought maybe I’d make some rice since we have some in the cupboard.  But when I asked John about it he told me that I’d have to toss it in the air to get the dust off of it, wash it well and then pick out the rocks and other foreign objects.  Even still we often crunch down on rocks in the rice.  Gentle rice chewing is advised.  I decided we’d make couscous with the curry instead.  It’s quicker and we only had to pick the bugs out.  Thank goodness there aren’t usually any rocks in pasta.

Curtis’ new friend Morro came over and ate with us tonight.  Morro is about the nicest guy you’ll ever meet.  It was fun cooking the food that I bought at the market with Curtis and then sharing it with a new friend.  As I write the two of them have gone to meet up with someone who is acquainted with Curtis’ sister’s Congolese friends.  Here connections like that between people are valued, no matter how shoestring they are.  Knowing and being known; it’s very important in a place where people are often more concerned about being connected rather than becoming entirely independent or self-sufficient.

Hopefully sometime soon I’ll be able to start a garden of my own in the office parcel.  I don’t yet know what can be grown in this soil.  I’ll have to ask folks around here and consult the internet on some of the lesser known items.  I’ll be most excited if I can grow beets or broccoli.  Who knows, maybe someday my vegetables will be sold in the market or at least cooked up and shared with friends around the table.

Cameroonian National Day

This week we were blessed to have visitors come through Kisangani. My boss Nate and HOPE’s President Peter came for a visit. The plan was for a quick one night stay and thanks to the wackiness of air travel here in Congo one night became two. I truly enjoy having guests and I am thankful that Peter and Nate came. Living in San Diego I had more house guests than I may ever have here. Nonetheless I enjoy welcoming visitors into my home and doing the best I can to accommodate them. Hospitality is a genuine Christian virtue and it can be effortful but it is not without reward. Trust relationships are built and blessings abound for both the giver and the receiver.

Peter brought some things that I’d ordered in the USA, little things that can enhance quality of life. He brought two ice trays allowing me to retire the one haggard ice tray that we’ve been using. It was a battle just getting some shattered cubes out of that thing. The new ones are working like butter. He brought a laptop surge protector that should prevent my computer from bursting into flames with the next sudden power surge. He brought a pillow since I failed to bring one when I moved out. You can probably get pillows just about everywhere in the world and you can get them here, but there’s more than meets the eye. Already my neck feels better. Lastly he brought some a tube of “Ant Killing System”. I never knew that there were so many types of ants: big, tiny, slow and lightning fast. Hopefully all of these species like the taste of the bait and take it back to their master.

One of our staff members was blessed with a new baby this week. Early Wednesday morning Willy’s wife went into labor and just before sunrise baby Beatrice was born. Beatrice is named after another of our staff members. It’s a close family at HOPE.

Equipe HOPE Kisangani

This week the weather has been nice in Kisangani. There have been several nights with prime sleeping weather around 77 degrees Fahrenheit. That means it’s too cold to sleep with a fan. We don’t have any blankets so if the air from the fan is too cold at night I have to climb out from under the mosquito net to fumble for the plug. Believe it or not, it’s better to sweat a bit while sleeping than to wake up chilly.

Last night we went to a party celebrating Cameroonian National Day. April 20 is the day that the divided colony of Cameroon (British and French control, respectively) was reunited in the 1970’s. My Cameroonian friend hosted the party and there was Cameroonian food, music and dance. They like to dance in a big circle and then pull people into the middle to show their stuff. (Yes, I was pulled into the middle. I can’t exactly brag on my dance moves.) It’s a little like many weddings in the USA when people make a circle except that these guys have some seriously flamboyant moves!

There at the party I met Father Matheus, a Brazilian priest who is teaching at the Catholic seminary here in town. Many of the students come from Cameroon. Here’s a guy who has been serving in Congo for over thirty years in many parts of the country. It was interesting learning from his perspectives and hearing about how they housed over 1000 people in their church compound during the six day long war in 2000. No one was hurt and they had enough food for everyone.

Today there was a parade of local health workers. They marched slowly past the building in neat formation. Most all of them were dressed in bright white as if they’d just come from the rounds at their clinics. The state of healthcare here in Congo is a major world concern. There’s a lot of well warranted press about the messy quandary in the Darfur region of Sudan right now and not much press on the crisis that is Congo. It’s recently been estimated that about 1,200 people are dying per day in this country for lack of basic medical care, disease prevention and nutrition. It’s a tough problem since 80% of the people live in isolated villages. I’m told that in the jungle many people are living by foraging and they aren’t in highly organized social groups. The health needs are great and there are a few organizations working on it.

I am feeling very good and we’re getting ready to start another week with the staff early tomorrow.

THANK YOU to the friends who have purchased calculators! I’m getting the word that they are arriving at our home office in Pennsylvania.

Calculators

If anyone out there thinks it’s a cool idea to be able to buy a simple calculator that will be used as a tool in microfinance here in Congo, please keep reading…
Sure we can buy calculators here, even wacky talking calculators. But they fall apart. All small electronics may be made in the same factory in China, but they ship the good stuff to the USA. If you are willing to donate, please follow the link below to www.amazon.com and have the calculator shipped to my name at HOPE International. The next colleague traveling here will bring them and we’ll put them into use. We currently have 9 staff that can use these and if more are donated we will save some for future expansion or share them with our sister offices in Kinshasa and Lubumbashi.

CLICK HERE to purchase this calculator on Amazon.com

Calculator

I have picked this calculator out specifically for its features and so that all staff is supplied uniformly. It keeps things simple and gives us the potential of using spare parts to make repairs if necessary.

Ship to:
Brian Becker
HOPE International
214A Willow Valley Lakes Dr.
Willow Street, PA 17584

Let me know if you have any questions and please let me know if you decide to order one for us! Many thanks! -Brian

E-mail Update #1

Dear Friends & Family,

Greetings from Kisangani in The Democratic Republic of the Congo, at the geographic center of Africa!  For at least the next two years, this will be my home.  It has been just over two months since I left my home in San Diego to pursue a new job and ministry opportunity with HOPE International (www.hopeinternational.org) leading their microfinance institution here in Kisangani.  Getting from there to here has been a major journey.  I sold most everything I own and packed four heavy suitcases to bring along.  Then I lugged those things to Chicago, Lancaster, Philadelphia, Kinshasa and finally a month ago to Kisangani.  I can’t complain, but I also cannot recommend that luggage-laden itinerary to anyone.  After all of that it felt wonderful to unpack and gather my thoughts about all of the great new colleagues that I have met and all of the technical microfinance knowledge that I have been taught.  I do miss life in San Diego, but I feel confirmation every day that this is where I am supposed to be and this is what I am supposed to be doing.Life has now settled into a regular workweek routine –at least as routine as life here can get.  Just about every day here presents challenge(s) and few things work out as planned.  I am learning the kind of patience and flexibility that should well endure life’s difficulties wherever I find myself in the future.  It’s a fringe benefit of working in the Congo.

Kisangani has a dinosaur hydroelectric plant leftover from the colonial era.  In those days the Belgian colonizers used African labor to tame the jungle and build a cosmopolitan city for themselves.  Anyone with black skin was relegated to the shanties in the outskirts by sundown.  The colonial period was followed by the rule of Mobutu Sese Seko.  Mobutu was heavily funded by France and the USA.  (He knew how to flatter US Presidents with flamboyant visits wearing hats made from jungle cats and promised to align with the West in the Cold War.)  He invested almost none of those millions anywhere but in his own pocketbook.  The roads deteriorated and all former colonial possessions were given to his cronies.  The building I now live in is owned and managed by the children of one such man.  Somehow through all of the mismanagement the hydroelectric plant still sends out 230 volts much of the time.

Life here, like life everywhere else, is colored by the place’s past.  Congo is struggling to become something more than the sum of its troubled past.  This is a land of hard working people and tremendous natural wealth.  My life here is shaped by the same colonial history and I am always working to let people know that I am here to do something different.  I am coaching local staff as together we work to provide small loans to women and men in the marketplace.  We are facilitating the bottom-up growth of the local economy by making the same basic baking services that you enjoy available to the poor.  The goal is to empower people to use their own gifts and energies to find a way out of poverty.  We provide the spark and then we encourage the honesty, integrity, and values of Christian community that promote holistic development.

I’m going to try to keep these updates short.  I’m writing regularly and posting photos on my website (www.brianjbecker.com).   Let me be clear that my goal in sending these updates is not to solicit your financial support.  Of course, I’ll be writing about what I am doing here and if you would like more information about HOPE Intl. I am happy to provide that to you directly.  That said, if you would like to contribute in a small but significant way to my work, you may consider buying a calculator that will be used in community bank meetings by our staff for years to come.  I think that might be a cool thing for some of you.  I’ll put more details about that on my website.

Please do not hesitate to contact me.  E-mails from friends and family are a tremendous blessing.  I’d be happy to hear from you anytime!  Thank you for your thoughts and prayers on my behalf!

Sincerely yours,

Brian Becker

Phillipians 1:2-7
Sunset Sky in Kisangani

A Picture is Worth a Few Nasty Words

On Friday Curtis came back from a week in Kinshasa and I drove to the airport to pick him up. Usually our driver would make the trip but our office was closed in observance of Congolese Labor Day. The jeep also needed gas to make the trip and again the driver usually fuels the vehicle. I had a new coffee table delivered and Claude the carpenter was here to put the last coat of varnish on it Friday early in the morning. We got to talking and a couple of hours into our conversation it was time to gas the jeep and go find Curtis at the airport. Thankfully Claude was willing to come along to the airport.

The first gas station we drove into didn’t have any gas. The second one did but it was swamped with waiting motorcycles and others on bicycles with gas cans. A couple of years ago there weren’t any modern gas stations operating here. All petrol was sold on the side of the road in bottles. Now there are two gas stations and several remaining roadside stands with bottles of various size and shape. I’ve been reading about the inflation of gas prices in the USA and I know it’s painful. We are paying something like $6 a gallon here, just in case that makes you feel any better when you pull away from the pump.

It was an odd feeling being at a crowded gas station and yet being the only car there at the time. It took quite a bit of coordination to get the car properly lodged in the mob in the proper direction only to realize that we needed the diesel pump that was standing in peaceful solitude about forty feet away! Since I am still new here and I don’t often buy gas, Claude’s help was a true blessing. While Claude went to talk them into giving me a receipt I noticed a painted sign on the side of the building just beyond the gas station. “House of Diamond Trading PEACE OF CHRIST”

Diamond Dealing

This sign exemplifies the irony of a Christianized culture overlapping with the trade of commodities precious in the same lands that sent the missionaries. Diamonds have value in industry. Yet most everyone’s first thought when they hear “diamond” is a cut and polished stone gleaming in the jeweler’s window. It has been said that they are not nearly as rare as once thought. I’ve heard that their market value is held artificially high by international corporations that stockpile them to prevent from flooding the market. Don’t get me wrong, diamonds are beautiful little rocks when they are cut and polished, but they have precious little to do with the peace of Christ. Here they are more likely to be associated with wars of greed.

It is not easy to take photos here. I snapped that picture discretely. Two young men then walked over to me to hassle me about it. In many countries it’s a general rule not to take photos of police or military. Here in Congo it is illegal to take photos of “public buildings”. This is often loosely translated into an opportunistic reason to punish foreigners for taking any photos in public. Police can use it as a reason to confiscate the camera or impose fines. This is part of why there aren’t more photos on my site.

I am able to take photos at work or church or of people that I am associated with here. I will do my best to safely and appropriately take pictures and post them to the site. As much as I love photos, I always want to be conscious of what social risks and harm can come out when the camera comes out.

It’s universally rude to take portraits of people without asking them first. Undoubtedly some here have had westerners come take their photo or film them only to find out years later that the photographer went back home and won contests or was paid handsomely for their image. The idea of a stranger snapping my portrait is disquieting to say the least! Still this morning at church, someone did it to me. I’m looking forward to days that are coming when my presence here won’t be quite as much of a novelty.

The Fruits of the Congo River Basin

These have been some good days this week. Yesterday at the end of work I noticed some of our loan officers outside with a long bamboo pole. At first I thought they were trying to knock the coconuts out of the palm tree, a dangerous endeavor. It seems comical but coconuts falling unannounced can put your lights out or worse. They were using the pole to attack the guava tree that hides between the coconut palm and the mango tree. I’m sure it would take me some time to master the method for picking guava, so fortunate for me they were kind to share.

It’s not every day that I taste a fruit I’ve never tried before! It reminded me of the time that we tasted jackfruit in Uganda. The jackfruit grows hanging from a tree and they can get to be about the size and shape of a watermelon. They are bright yellow with a spiky exterior and have a dense, sweet, sticky yellow flesh replete with large seeds. They are tasty and like nothing I’ve tasted before or since. Equally it reminded me of the summer day working at Point Loma last year when I packed my lunch and met up with good friends on the grounds crew in one the hidden away garden sheds on campus. After lunch we took a short trip to the loquat tree near the campus security building and my friends shared those tiny tasty tangy fruits. Or, there was the time I discovered the American Cameo Apple at Henry’s Marketplace in San Diego and couldn’t stop singing its praises for months. There are probably people in San Diego who are crying out, “good riddance that guy who talked about that apple has vanished!”  There are a few others who are eating all the Cameos in my stead… and spreading the news.
Jackfruit.

Jackfruit.

There must be something universally human about finding a new and tasty fruit on a tree never before seen and being the one who shares it with friends. Perhaps it goes back to the Garden of Eden and the untold abundance of available fruits, with only one poisoned and forbidden. Coca-Cola is the most recognized brand name in the world and they own over 400 sugar soda brands across the globe. Lest they forget that God has far more brands of fruit, sweet and natural. There are hundreds of varieties of mangos alone!

I can remember the first few weeks of every new job I have ever had. (Teaching piano, auto finance, PLNU) There are many moments when the brain pauses in sheer overload and you think to yourself, “What have I gotten myself into!?” Though nothing has been altogether impossible to understand in the last two months, I have taken in a lot of information regarding everything from security to accounting to human resources and everything through the my American lens in a place that’s about as far from America as you can get. Now I am assimilating all of the instruction my colleagues have bestowed upon me, putting it into play, and the pieces are fitting together pretty well.

Late this afternoon I was scratching my chin as I read the manual for our power inverter which is currently non-functional and there may not be anyone here in town who knows how to fix it. (If anyone out there knows power inverters or knows someone who does, please let me know. For those of you who don’t have a clue, (like me,) it’s a device that uses the AC electricity to charge a bunch of big batteries and then when the power goes out it supplies auxiliary emergency power to run our computers so we can continue working.) I have been spending time with each member of the staff to learn more about their professional and personal history. As I was sitting there trying to interpret the wiring diagrams our Loan Officer Supervisor Lowa walked into the room and asked me if t was an appropriate time to have our discussion. I quickly obliged even though there were only thirty minutes remaining in the workday. We ended up talking until about seven o’clock. It’s great finding a good new conversation partner, colleague or friend anywhere in the world. It ranks right up there with finding a new fruit or any other gift from God.

These have been some good days this week. I have been trying to reach my friends Lilliane and Richard in San Diego for some time now. I got a voicemail from Lilliane this evening and we just had a great conversation. Lilliane and Richard are from Congo and I know that it was partly my friendship with them that ignited my desire to come and work here. After a great talk with Lowa and another one with Lilliane, my jaw hurts from so much talking and my head hurts from doing it all in French.

A man named John comes and helps around the house two days a week. He may be the most friendly and hard working person I have ever met. He works as the head guard for the guard company that watches our office. I have inherited this arrangement by which he works here twice a week. On the days when he works at the apartment he also rides his bike to the university where he is taking classes to become a nurse. He is married and has two children. He recently bought land and is going to start building a house. I asked him how he does it all and he said, “We just aren’t made to sit around.” Today I asked him to get some bleach to make a light solution for washing vegetables. Then I was trying to communicate that I would like him to buy a cucumber to make some salad. I was stumbling in my French and gesturing and trying to think of how to say pickle, but that would have made things worse. He couldn’t understand me. (I find that sometimes repeating it in English doesn’t help.) I tried to look it up online but the internet cut out. Then he says “concombre!?” It’s almost the same word with a French accent! We both laughed for about two minutes. I’ve been feeling a distinct lack of vegetables in my diet. Tonight it was incredible eating that cucumber diced up with tomatoes, onions and greens. I don’t think a squash ever tasted so good! Tonight the blog is dedicated to John. As for me, I will never forget how to say cucumber in French!

p.s. I hope to have more photos posted soon!